Taroko: Walking Through a Marble Wonderland

Taroko Gorge is a must see when traveling to Taiwan. It's Taiwan's number one tourist attraction, but that's for good reason. The enormous caverns, crystal blue river and marble boulders make one feel wonderfully insignificant, and it is unlike a scene that you will see anywhere else. 

You have one of two options when visiting the Taroko National Park. One is the touristy route. This being a tour bus, rental car or scooter or touring taxi. In order to see all of the most popular sights, walking is not an option. The second choice is the more adventurous route. While you need to have a permit to go hiking off the main paths, there are only about 40 people allowed a permit per day so there are never any crowds and I've been told about spectacular views and cliff diving expeditions. We opted for the first choice, taking a taxi tour. It was good for us because our taxi driver knew all of the popular spots and gave us time at each place. Since there were 4 of us we only had to pay 500 NT per person for the tour. And it saved the hassle of navigating the park ourselves.

Cavern tunnels for driving through

Swallow Cave was a fun start. The enormity of the cavern put us in the perfect mindset. I was in utter awe at the size of the cliffs. The sights only got better as we continued into the gorge. The clear turquoise waters sparkled against glaring white marble in its natural form. With such massive incredible beauty it's hard to care about the swarms of Chinese tourists. The highlight of the trip was definitely the second to last stop, at the yellow bridge. While walking over the bridge we spotted a tall pagoda partway up the mountainside.  Lucia, Tobias and I decided to investigate and started to climb the stairs while Faye took a nap in the gondola overlooking the river. Once we reached the pagoda, we found that we could not only climb to the top, but could step out and see some of the most spectacular views of the trip. The final stop was the waterfall. While it is truly breathtaking, this one was marred by the hoards of Chinese tourists packed on the viewing deck so we only stayed long enough to snap a few pictures. 

Taiwan has many rare gems, all of them unique, and Taroko is unlike anything that you will ever see in your life. RThe sights command respect and inspire the truth of how insignificant you are in this world throughout your every fiber. 

Natural marble walls

Hard hats required at swallow caves

The view from the top of the pagoda

Temple and waterfall nestled among the mountains

Lighting Lanterns, Shifen Waterfall, and Juifen c

The towns of Shifen and Juifen are the perfect places for a day trip. They are only about a 40 minute train ride from Taipei so they are close as well as cultural and beautiful.

Shifen has everything that you could want: a colorful train, a giant waterfall, lots of souvenirs and the chance to paint an light your own lantern. Daphne and I went during lantern festival in March and were in the perfect mood for all of the above.

The train in itself is an attraction as the brightly colored cars roll right through the center of town. Being a tiny ex-mining town, the railroad is actually main street. An easy 20 minute walk outside of the village will take you to the massive Shifen Waterfall. This gorgeous sight can be torturing on a warm beautiful day; it beckons onlookers into its cool clear waters.

We then decided that it was time to meander back to town for the main event: making and sending my lantern into the sky. First we picked out a color, then started painting it with calligraphy brushes. The pictures and Chinese words depict things that we hope for the next year. Most of mine were about adventure and safe travels. Since the zodaic had recently changed from the year of the snake to the year of the horse I also painted some horses. Then we stepped into the train tracks, lit the inside of the lantern and let it lift into the sky to joint the dozens of other colorful lanterns floating lazily through the sky. 

After some delicious snacks and a bit of shopping, we hopped back on the train and continued on to the town of Juifen. Being a beautiful day on a long weekend it was packed with people, but that would be because it has a charm completely it's own. It is a town built on the side of a mountain overlooking the sea and looks like a scene from a post card. Climbing a considerable amount of stairs is inevitable, but again it adds to the charm. After any amount of ascension you would turn around to see a narrow ally of stars lined with lanterns with the beachside peeking from behind. Then we decided to eat some dinner (seafood, of course) while enjoying the scenery. Since its on a steep mountainside everywhere has a beautiful view.

The night market was a nightmare to navigate. It is a long narrow loop of a pathway with no turning off point. It wouldn't have been so difficult if it hadn't have been packed from wall to wall with hundreds of tourists. However, it did have some of the most interesting souvenirs. In addition to the normal bobble heads, figurines, and key chains there were Chinese puppets, masks, and jeweled shell ashtrays with different animals on them.

Both places were well worth the train ride!

Lovely Little Luichui

So after battling the CNY traffic on our bus, Daphne and I finally made it to Kaosiung from Kenting, where we were to catch our fairy boat to the small island of Luichui. Growing up on the Great Lakes of Michigan with a home on Beaver Island I was very used to ferry boat travel. I was stunned to see the size of the boat. It could not even carry cars. It was smaller than any boat I've ever seen in the great lakes to ferry passengers, and the big waves of the ocean did a good job of making us feel woozy. Luckily it was only a 20 minute ride.

The manager of the hostel met us with her scooter as well as one for us. The hostel price was 2500 NT, but that included the ferry boat round trip tickets, the room, a light breakfast, tickets to the nearest sights and a scooter from them for the entirety of our visit, as well as a guided night tour of some of the sights. The name of the hostel was only in Chinese, but here's the website: http://servers.ooops.com.tw/about.php

Hello Luichui!

After unloading our luggage at the hostel, we decided to find some dinner before the night tour. We found a barbecue place with some karaoke. The oysters were unbelievable, the fish was delicious, and the meat and vegetables paired with singing Taiwanese tourists was exactly what we needed to boost our energy after a long day of travel.

Fish and oysters, after the beef, corn, sausages and assorted veggies

We finished just in time to meet up for the night tour. While most of it was showing sights that I would rather see in the light, there were some historical stories, some legends, and some rock shadows made by flashlights that held our interest. There was also a couple sights of love birds sleeping in trees all snuggled together. Mostly, we found that this free tour was a good way to familiarize ourselves with the island so that we could come back in the daylight.

And that we did. We scootered around the whole island to see all of the major sights. It is mostly one big tourist trap, but since there are not many tourists that visit this small island, it wasn't crowded and still enjoyable.

The one sight that I really enjoyed seeing was the Black Dwarf Cave. It can hardly be called a cave, since it's just large enough to squeeze my skinny butt through it, any one taller than 5' or weighing more than 115 lbs would have a problem--and it's definitely not an adventure for the claustrophobic! My favorite part was the history of that cave. The original inhabitants of Liuchiu Island were Siraya aborigines. In the 1600s Taiwan was under Dutch occupation, and when The Golden Lion was shipwrecked off the coast of Luichiu, everyone on the ship was slaughtered by the island population. In retaliation, another Dutch ship came and massacred all of the aboriginals on the island. Those who managed to escape--several hundred--fled to Dwarf Cave and hid there. I cannot imagine so many fitting in this small crevice! The story ends with the Dutch filling the caves with oil and burning those inside alive. It's a chilling story, and to stand in that cave was an experience that I'm glad that I had.

Daphne squeezing through Black Dwarf Caves

Another place worth visiting are the Beauty Caves. We did not stick to the walking paths inside the fences, but climbed through the rocks and cliffs outside, getting some incredible views. The legend of these caves were that in the 1600s a Chinese statesman and his beautiful daughter were shipwrecked nearby while fleeing the invading Manchurians. They made their home in this cave and lived off fish and plants. After the father died (presumably of old age as no other reason was given), the aboriginals found the girl. Rather than leaving his body, she bit off her own tongue and killed herself.

Beauty Caves

Another must see is Vase rock. While there's not much to see or do once you've seen it, it is an iconic image of the island and is quite beautiful. After Vase rock we got some sashimi at a local place, picked up a few beers and hung out at Zhong Ao Beach until it was time to catch our boat home again. Zhong Ao is not the best beach if you like to swim--there's a no swimming policy--and it's not a white sandy beach but a pebble beach, littered with sea glass, shells and coral of all sorts of colors. I spent a lot of time collecting stones, shells and glass for my bamboo plant back in the states. The view was beautiful though and the beach was practically empty.

Vase Rock

Little Luichui is a day trip, maybe two if you don't do much either day. It's not a place that I would travel a long distance to go to, but if nearby, it is a great little known island for exploring!

Goodbye Luichui!

We had one stop before we went back home to Zhongli. The High Speed Railway station in Kaosiung. While looking for dinner at the station, we came across the most glorious pizza I have ever tasted at Pizza My Heart, on the 3rd floor. We chose the truffle pizza. It was mind blowing. The cheese was light and gooey, truffle flavor was in every bight, and it was cooked to perfection. And a bonus the sold micro-brews there--a rare find in Taiwan. Amazing truffle pizza and a Rogue Hazelnut Brown Nectar was the best way we could have possibly ended our trip. I would travel a long distance to eat there again!

Daphne and I enjoying good pizza and good beer

Kenting. Stepping Foot on the Southern Tip of Taiwan.

Chinese New Year in Taiwan is an experience that won't soon be forgotten. Everyone is festive, Hong Baos (red envelopes) with money are handed out among friends and family, Gong Xi Gong Xi (a song translated to Congratulations Congratulations) is playing in every establishment, fruit and flowers with red ribbons are sold in every store, and it's a time of year for big feasts among family and friends. And, of course, the cities close down for 6 days to spend with your family or vacation. After a Chinese New Years dinner of traditional Hakka food with Daphne and her family, we spent the rest of the vacation sun bathing and adventuring in Kenting.

We left at 6:30 AM and caught the High Speed Rail (HSR) to Kaosiung. By far this is my favorite way to travel. An 8 hour train ride was more than cut in half and the spacious cushioned seats and the smooth ride was worth the extra money--especially considering we made it to Kenting in the early afternoon instead of spending a day traveling. In Kaosiung we caught a bus that dropped us of in South Bay, the part of Kenting in which we were staying. We walked to our hostel, A-Wu, which was not far from the bus stop. A-Wu has been my favorite hostel to stay in to date. The rooms were spacious, clean and decorated appropriately to have a soothing tropical ambiance. There was a balcony overlooking the harbor side activities (in which you can hear but not see the ocean), the staff was friendly and helpful, the breakfasts were amazing, hot and large, and the pets were friendly. It was a little more than 2000 NT per person per night, which during Chinese New Year, is incredibly cheap, and it is in an area with a lot going on, and just a short scooter ride to downtown, which is where the night market is.

Our bedroom

The balcony outside our room

The first day we spent riding around on our little scooter. We rented it at a small shop a few buildings down from our hostel. We were ready to get to know the area. Sail rock is a can't miss.  A mountain of a boulder rises out of the ocean at the edge of the busiest part of Kenting. Apparently it was a part of the mainland but just rolled off at some point (it is never said when exactly). They say that it looks like a sailboat about to set sail and that's where it gets its name, but I couldn't see that. They also say that up close it looks like Richard Nixon so it's nicknamed 'Nixon's Head'. Although I'm not sure if it's Nixon that I see, I can definitely make out a small upper lip, a bulbous nose and a high forehead.

The next stop was the lighthouse. It was a beautiful day and the white architecture looked like a Grecian building along the skyline, but it wouldn't have made me heartbroken if we had skipped it. It's a big tourist spot, a small fee is charged, you can not climb to the top of the lighthouse, there were a lot of Chinese tourists, and walking uphill through the tourists was a bit of a pain. But if you love lighthouses it is an interesting one, with beautiful scenery and a white walled courtyard and a one room museum, and a one of a kind view of the valley--if you can get a photo without the tourists!

We continued to the Southern most tip of Taiwan. Once we reached the point in which we had to leave our little scooter behind, it was a short hike to a rocky beach with a view that can't be forgotten. There were not many tourists at this spot at the time that we went, which made it more enjoyable. And if you are going to the most southern part of Taiwan, you have to go to the southern tip, right?

Next, we continued up the other side of the island and found my favorite part of the entire trip. The Slumping Cliffs. The view was breathtaking, rivaling some of the views in Ireland. The wind was strong enough that it made it feel daring to stand on the edge (our scooter was having a hard time not getting blown away so in all actuality in may have been a bit daring). The waves from the ocean were roaring even from so far below. It was an amazing experience.

The View off the Slumping Cliffs

The Slumping Cliffs

 Then it was time to find some dinner at the night market downtown. We found a great eclectic restaurant called Chez Papa with a Moroccan decor, good Belgium beer, hooka, and incredible Italian food. This was the start of our realization that Kenting had wonderful international food. I was very impressed with the salmon pasta with capers.

For day 2 we had one main goal: scuba diving. We found a reasonably priced place that was willing to give us lessons and take us under the water.  The lessons were about 2 hours long and taught us the basics that normally take about a day to learn. While my heart was pumping for the entire two hours, unsure that I would be able to breathe, the longer that I was underwater the more comfortable I felt. While we weren't able to go too far out as beginners, we did see some coral, a school of silver fish, a Moorish Idol (the fish that Gil from Finding Nemo is),  and a couple of big blue tropical fish. Now I feel geared up for Malaysia with some of the best scuba diving in the world!

Me under the water at the start of our excursion

Daphne translating the instructions from our Chinese speaking instructor

Next we did a little souvenir shopping (although we didn't find much--mostly key chains, pointless trinkets and bobble heads with Taiwan themes) and stopped at Casa de Margarita, an exceptional Mexican restaurant. Mexican food that hasn't been turned into Chinese-Mexican-Fusion food is rare in Taiwan, so we were thrilled to find authentic tacos and burritos--with sour cream (another rare find)!

We finished our night at the Moonlight Bar, located just across from our hostel on the beach. It is a bit hard to find, we sort of stumbled across it while lighting fireworks in the park. There are no signs, just a building at the other side of the park, on the beach. It looks like it may be a park maintenance building, but don't be fooled. Once inside, we were thrilled. We sat on palates underneath a tent in front of a beach fire and watched the waves roll in and the palm trees sway. The drinks were tropical, the atmosphere was soothing and the staff was friendly.

Our table at the Moonlight Bar

The next day we would be heading out of Kenting and to the island of Lui Kui. But in two short days Kenting stole my heart.Don't be surprised if this is one day my new home--I wouldn't be!

If I Moved to Meinong, I Would Never Come Back!

I find that no matter the country I've visited, cities all seem the same. I realize there are many differences between Dublin, New York City and Taipei, but they all have a lot of people, large buildings, any number of things to do at all hours of the day, and a fast pace about them. If I really want to see the culture of an area I don't go to the capital, I go to the countryside. 

The name Meinong originated from Minong, which it was called when the Japanese inhabited Taiwan. Meinong is the most rural that I have yet to see in Taiwan and the sights of banana, coconut, rice and even corn fields (yes CORN fields!), the breath of clean air, the smell of horse poo and the friendliness of the locals made me feel like I was back home in Michigan. It is a small district of the much larger county (and city) of Kaoshiong. The town was once a thriving tobacco industry, but when Taiwan entered the World Trade Organization in early 2000s, Taiwan simply couldn't compete. Instead of collapsing, they remade the town into a country retreat focusing on Hakka history, food and culture. It was named one of the Top 10 Small Tourist Towns by the Tourism Bureau in 2012.

Meinong is a Hakka village. In Taiwan, the Hakka people make up about 15% of the population. In Meinong, the Hakka make up 95% of the population. In Chinese 'Hakka' means 'guest families.' Their ancestors are said to have come from northern China. When they moved into established populations there normally wasn't much land left for farming. Many Hakka men then made their careers in the military or public service. As a result, education is highly emphasized. Hakka people have had a significant influence in Chinese history as revolutionary, government, and military leaders. In Meinong, they specialize in farming and handicrafts and value education above all else.

After catching a train to Kaoshiong,I walked about a block to get on the bus to Meinong. It was about 130 NT and runs 20 minutes after the hour. It's the last stop so it's not hard to find. The 7-11 on the corner called me a cab since it was night time and the B&B that I was staying at was a 10-15 minute bike ride away. I stayed at a rather large place called Jhong Jheng Hu Lake B&B. It is surrounded by crop fields and the back yard is towered over by the mountains--visible in every part of Meinong due to the flat lands (which makes it impossible to get lost--even for me!). I stayed in the old building, which was a little dated but very comfortable for 1500 NT (1400NT on weekdays). We were served breakfast of hot soy bean milk and steamed rolls and various toppings including but not limited to ginger soaked apples, tofu, red beans and nutella for us foreigners; the bikes were also included in our nightly stay. They aren't the greatest of bikes (mine had a problem with the kick stand and another had a tire that rubbed), so I wouldn't plan on going for a long adventure (I was planning on a 14 mile ride to the butterfly gardens in Maolin and quickly realized that was not an option), but they are perfect to get you town and back. The B&B itself is breathtaking with orchids growing in trees, a long wooden covered porch, and quaint scenery at every turn. Beware of the chickens, though, they run the place. As I ate my breakfast the first morning I watched a hen climb all over the keyboard to their computer squawking away. It was hilarious because one of the men in charge (I believe it was the owner's husband) would just say 'how' every time the chicken screeched, meaning 'ok' and just chuckled as he watched her run the place. Notice there are chickens and roosters which means they will crow in the morning, but I was able to just turn over and go back to sleep. The owner is an adorable little woman who speaks no English (although one of the men managing the place--possibly her son?--does), but that won't stop her from hugging you, chatting and laughing with you. If you are lucky you will be there on a night that her ukulele group practices. They play and sing beautifully!

SHE'S the real boss!

The view from the B&B

So the next day I was ready to explore. And I really only needed one day. The town is about 3 miles long, an easy walking distance. Much of the day I spent watching the farmers and biking through the countryside. Jhong Jheng Lake is about a half mile away from the B&B and I stopped to watch some young people fishing. The water level of the lake is low--close to empty--although I was never clear why (my Chinese is very limited); it has been a dry year for Taiwan, so maybe it's as simple as that. Nevertheless, it was a beautiful sight.

Jhong Jheng Lake

The first sight that I came across on my list of must sees was the Meinong Word-worshipping Paper Incinerator, on the main road called Tai-an, built during the Cing dynasty in 1779. as I stated above, the Hakka value farming and education above all else (a high number of PHDs can be found in this rural town), and respect the Chinese written language quite a bit. They believe that words were created by Cang-Jie who is a Chinese mythical figure. This makes words sacred relics and so they cannot be treated as normal objects. Instead, all paper with words on it is burned and the ashes are stored until the Lunar January 9th, when they are carried to the river, accompanied by music, by local literaries. Here, members of the Guang Shan Temple carry out a ritual and spread the ashes into the river. It is still used today and is also a place to worship Cang-Jie--indicated by the lit incense.

Word-worshipping Paper Incinerator

Next I stopped at the paper umbrella shops down the road. Here the road changes names from Tai-an to Jungshan. There were two shops crammed with homemade paper umbrellas, qing dynesty coins, baskets, carvings, and hand painted silk and wooden fans. The wares range from about 100 NT to several thousands of NT so I stocked up on umbrellas, fans and coins for gifts and souvenirs! You can easily spend hours in these shops, looking at the many many different umbrellas, the trinkets and knick-knacks found in basket hiding places, watching the women paint umbrellas or even painting one yourself! The umbrellas are one of the biggest tourist attractions in Meinong. They are made of bamboo and paper and then coated in an oil that makes them safe for the rain. After drying for a few days they are ready to paint. Each one is hand made and hand painted (unless you buy the really tiny ones, which are printed, but they will be sure to tell you.) The skills were first brought to Meinong by a craftsmen who bought up all the paper umbrella shops and moved them to Meinong in 1924. The skill is handed through generations; I watched 3 generations of women running one store. 'Paper' and 'son' are homophones in Chinese, so paper umbrellas were traditionally given as dowries; this was a blessing to give birth to a son. But paper umbrellas also symbolize keeping away evil spirits and bringing good fortune. To me, they are breathtaking traditions passed down for 5 generations in Meinong alone.

This is just a small fragment of the umbrellas for sale. They come in varieties of colors, with flowers, birds, buildings, tigers, dragons, phoenixes, yin yangs, and anything else you can imagine!

My painted umbrella--it doesn't quite match the beauty that generations have mastered, but it was a fun way to spend an hour

Across the street is the Meinong Traditional Hakka Restaurant (not clearly marked in English but the only restaurant), where I got my lunch. I tried some chaobantiao noodles (40NT) recommended to me by the server when I asked her favorite, as well as some greens soaked in ginger (60 NT), but what really stole the show was that meigan kourou (200 NT). This is a ball of mustard leaves wrapped in tender fatty pork and it is so succulent that the pork fell apart with my chopsticks. Hands down this is the best dish I have had in all of Taiwan. The waiters (all three of them) chatted with me while I ate. I was the only customer (between lunch and dinner time) and although their English was limited they were excited to ask me questions, and help with any questions that I had;the entire staff was extremely friendly.

The meigan kourou! Yum!

Ginger soaked apples, greens, rice, chaobantiao noodles and--of course--Taiwan Beer

 If you go a bit farther down Jungshan you will see a wall on the West side. Do go check it out as it hides an incredible view to the river and the city. Locals bike and scooter along narrow bridges across and many will stop you to chat.  Not many speak English--and as far as I could tell they were speaking Hakkanese or Taiwanese (both are local languages) and not Chinese, but they don't mind. I don't think that they see many foreigners because many asked "Nǐ zhù zài nǎlǐ?" meaning 'where do you live?' and I would respond with 'megwo' meaning 'USA' and they were thrilled. Even though we couldn't communicate much, they chatted a lot. While I find Taiwanese in general to be a friendly lot, it was nothing compared to that of the people in Meinong. Don't be surprised if they want to show off their musical skills outside their house or invite you to take a cup of tea with them!

The view from one of the narrow bridges

Then I went back to the furnace and took that road: Yong'an rd. This was the first road in Meinong and still has quite a few traditional buildings--even if they are a bit worn. But if you are craving architecture, history and culture then you are probably starving in Taipei and they were welcome sights to me.

One of the larger traditional homes. This one seems abandoned but most are not. I was particularly drawn to this one because it shows Hakka style of architecture--revolving around communal living as well as defense

The east gate seems out of place in the middle of the city, but you can't miss it. It stands in the middle of town, marking where the eastern edge once was. Although there is now a bridge over a narrow river, that once served as a moat. It's imposing nature clearly suggests that it was there for defensive purposes, but I will reiterate it anyways. It was first reconstructed in 1755. During the Japanese Colonial period--in 1895--it was destroyed in the battles between Luitui Yimin Army and the Japanese military. In 1937 it was again rebuilt and reinforced with concrete.

The East Gate from the "outside." Although it's in the middle of town, I'm facing the river that served as a moat when the Japanese were here, and this would have been the edge of the city.

This little town stole my heart and will not be forgotten. It was an incredible solo retreat!

New Years Eve in Zhongli, Taiwan

Everyone in Taiwan uses the big boys. I don't think there are any restrictions on buying fireworks here!

Unlike Christmas, New Years Eve is done in a big way in Taiwan. From early evening there are people everywhere on the street--more people that I've seen out and about than in my entire 5 months of living here. The night markets are packed, the streets are full and many enjoyed the pleasant weather of this years New Years Eve by walking to their destination. I was one of those people, along with my companions Daphne and Katie. While walking to my favorite bar in Zhongli (Hide Out Lounge and Cafe), located in the middle of the local Zhongjeng park, we saw large fireworks lit in the middle of the street--as traffic continued in a normal fashion, and children of all ages dressed to impress and many toddling about, ready to enjoy their first New Years Eve.

She was too cute, even if she didn't like the flash. When I told her that she was cute in Chinese she responded with thanks in English. Her lisp was adorable!

In Taiwan, New Years Eve is a night for large concerts in the parks that mimic Times Square--free, of course. Many travel hours after work or school to see their favorite bands--I had one student who finished class with me at 9:00 PM and was then going to Kaoshiong--a 2.5 hr ride by High Speed Rail--to see his favorite band, Mayday. Our destination was much closer, only a ten minute walk from work. The park was packed with people and vendors. The stage was enormous and there were large screens located throughout the park for those who did not have a place close enough to the stage. We found 3 spots on a bench swing outside Hide Out. It was supposed to be a temporary spot that we could enjoy our drinks before midnight when we would meander closer to the stage for the countdown and fireworks. Little did we know that the spot we had chosen was the perfect one for firework viewing. At 30 seconds to midnight the entire park began the countdown. At midnight fireworks burst right above our heads! At one point we were dusted with firework particles we were so close. It was beautiful.

RIGHT above us!

The last firework was everyone's cue to clear out. More than half the people were gone in ten minutes. This was great for us, who were able to get in to the previously packed bar and find a table. We stayed for a few hours and drank and talked with each other and with new friends, then walked home--stopping for dan bing on the way, of course! This has been my most memorable night bringing in the New Year to date. Taiwan did NOT disappoint.

Happy New Year! Bring on 2014!